Featured Park in Southwest Virginia:
Grayson Highlands State Park
Mountain Vistas
Located in far southwestern Virginia, on the southern flank of Mount Rogers, Grayson Highlands State Park is home to high mountain peaks and ridges, alongside dense forests of fir, spruce, oak, and maple. On a clear day you can see into the mountains of North Carolina as ridge after ridge fade into the horizon, much like waves rolling on the ocean. Hiking trails provide easy access to water falls and cascading streams. The location of the park, in the less populated southwestern part of Virginia, assures that many of these scenes are enjoyed in solitude. Two questions that many visitors ask: How did the open balds form, and what is the origin of the wild ponies who roam these Highland mountains.
The Balds
Balds are open, treeless areas that offer sweeping views of the mountains. At one time, these highlands were covered in hemlock, Frasier fir, and red spruce. In the mid-1800’s the value of the timber was recognized, which led to logging from the late 1800’s into the early 1900’s. This left wide-open areas of the mountains, or balds. Settlers used these balds to graze livestock. To keep the balds open, fires were set to drive back the invading brush and trees.
When the Federal and State governments began to acquire the land in the 1960’s they recognized the attraction of the manmade balds and set about to keep them open. Park service personnel exert great effort to keep the balds open so visitors can enjoy the scenic beauty of the mountains. The staff are aided in their efforts by grazing of the wild ponies.
Initially the forest service grazed sheep in the clear cut areas. The story goes that the sheep could not find enough browse to sustain them. Mountain laurel on which they grazed was poisonous. Many of the sheep died. A second failed attempt involved cattle. The cattle did well on the summer grasses but when winter and cold weather came their food had to be supplemented with hay. This was an unmanageable and uneconomic situation.
Introduction of the Ponies
Finally the opportunity arose to place the
ponies in the park. Bill Pugh was developing a new breed of horse, the
Virginia Highlander. He had collected quite a few ponies on his farm at
Teas, Virginia. He offered the ponies as a solution to the Forest
Service problem. An agreement was made that Mr. Pugh would keep at
least 50 ponies in the Pine Mountain area of Mount Rogers Recreation
Area. Ponies faired well in the mountainous area and the following
spring several colts were born into the herd. This early success was
followed by three years in which 28 ponies died. Some of the deaths
were due to natural causes, but other deaths were suspected foul play.
Eventually Mr. Pugh ended his sponsorship of the ponies. Sponsorship was offered to the Glade Mountain Saddle Club; however, the membership as a whole voted against taking on this task. Several members who felt a strong desire to help maintain the herd formed the Wilburn Ridge Pony Association. This association maintains the herd at approximately 30 animals within the State Park. A total of 125 ponies live in the Mount Rogers Recreation Area and the Grayson Highlands State Park. The association patrols the herd monthly. In the fall, ponies are rounded up and examined. Sick ponies are tended to. Ponies are auctioned at the Grayson Highlands Fall Festival to maintain the herd at a sustainable level.
(Thanks to Grayson Highlands State Park for information on the ponies).
Favorite Trails
There are 10 trails within the State Park, with additional trails in the surrounding Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. Each trail has its own personality with panoramic views or quiet forest walks or a combination of both. One of the most traveled, Rhododendron Trail, begins at Massie Gap Parking Area, and climbs to the top of Wilburn Ridge. It provides access to other trails along the northern part of the park and into the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area to the north. These include Rhododendron Gap Trail, beautiful in June with the flowering Catawba Rhododendron, and the Appalachian Trail. When we camp at Grayson Highlands S.P. two of the lesser visited trails are our favorites.
Twin Pinnacles Trail (1.75 miles)
This trail is one of our favorites because of its almost mystical feel. Most of the trail wonders through a forest of yellow birch and red spruce. On a late afternoon walk, you may feel you are being watched. Stop and look around, a white-tailed deer might be keeping an eye on you from behind a birch tree.
Twin Pinnacles trail begins behind the visitor center atop Haw Orchard Mountain. Walking along the left branch of the loop, before reaching the Twin Pinnacles, you will come to an open area in the forest. On the left side stands the “Magic Tree”, a large yellow birch growing on top of a large rock boulder. The roots of the tree wrap around the boulder as it reaches to the soil below.
Continuing on, you reach the base of Twin Pinnacles. Climb the stone steps to the top of the pinnacle and feel on top of the world. Off to the north you have a clear view of Mount Rogers (5729 feet) and Whitetop Mountain (5520 feet), the highest points in the state. Looking around you see southwestward into Tennessee and southward into North Carolina.
Descending back into the forest, continue along the trail to Big Pinnacle, a large rock outcrop near the northern edge of the Mountain. This point again places you atop the world and gives a little different vantage point, looking across towards Wilburn Ridge. Early one Saturday I watched as rivers of clouds streamed along the crest of the ridge, as they led a storm into the area.
The trail continues southward from Big Pinnacle through the forest back to the Visitor Center.
Cabin Creek Trail (1.9 miles)
This loop trail is a favorite on a hot summer’s day. The walk beside the creek offers many chances to stop and cool off.
The trail begins at Massie Gap Parking Area. Head off to the left, downhill towards the creek. Soon you enter a rhododendron thicket and wander along a small stream towards Cabin Creek. Along the way you pass a patch of Big-toothed Aspen, a rarity in Virginia, more typically seen in the northeastern U.S. and southeastern Canada.
As you reach the creek, the trail continues to the right up the creek. A jumble of rocks and roots make the trail uneven; however, it is a comfortable climb up the trail. In season the banks of the creek are covered in the white to light pink blossoms of Rosebay Rhododendrons.
The trail wonders along the bank of Cabin Creek as the creek cascades and falls over rocks and boulders. Along the trail, you will pass a 25 foot waterfall. At the highest point, the trail extends along the creek, to an observation platform for viewing another beautiful water fall.
Things to Know About the Campground
There are two separate campgrounds in the park. The road to the main campground is on the right, approximately 3 miles past the Park Headquarters. 0.2 miles further down the road, near the head of Cabin Creek Trail, is the entrance to the horse campground.
There are many nicely shaded campsites in the main campground. My favorite area is along campsites #46-59, where there are mature trees to give an outdoors, woodsy feel. If you want a more open setting, campsites #31-73 are shaded but the trees are not as large. Families with small children or teenagers seem to pick these sites because of the nearby large, open field with a small playground. Families enjoy playing Frisbee or pitching a ball. The remaining sites are a mixture of trees and open spaces.
Several hot showers are available in well-kept bathhouses. A sink outside of the bathhouse is used for washing dishes.
A camp store, near the entrance to the main campground, sells those little necessities: matches, park jackets, water, etc. that you might have forgotten; and those other things: playing cards, popsicles, Frisbees that you don’t know you need until you see them.
A camp host is on site throughout the main camping season, from Spring through Fall. We have always found the hosts to be willing and able to answer your questions and sell firewood and ice. They live onsite in the center of the campground near the bathhouse.
You can expect to find sites for RV’s, with water and electricity, or sites for tents, without water or electricity. These are in separate areas of the campground, separated by trees and open space.
Points of Interest
Wilburn Ridge
Twin Pinnacles and Big Pinnacle
Cabin Creek
Homestead Area
Nature (a partial list)
Trees and Wildflowers
Yellow Birch (Betula alleghaniensis)
Frasier Magnolia (Magnolia fraseri)
Mountain-ash (Sorbus americana)
Huckleberry (Vaccinium sp.)
Red Spruce (Picea rubens Sarg)
Frasier Fir (Abies fraseri)
Hemlock (Tsuga sp.)
Big-toothed Aspen (Populus grandidentata)
Hawthorn tree (Crataegus sp.)
Striped Maple (Acer pennsylvanicum)
American Beech (Fagus grandifolia Ehrh.)
Catawba Rhododendron (Rhododendron catawbiensis)
Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia)
Rosebay Rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum)
Flame Azalea (Rhododendron calendulaceum)
Painted Trillium (Trillium undulatum)
Pink Lady’s Slipper (Cypripedium acaule)
Birds
Over 130 varieties of birds are likely to be seen in the park including Red-tailed hawk (Buteo jamaisensis) and other hawks, Great-horned Owl (Bubo virginianus), Barred Owl (Strix varia) and other owls, Wood thrush (Hylocichla mustelina), chickadees, numerous flycatchers, warblers, sparrows, wrens, woodpeckers, wild turkey and many more.
Animals
Ponies
Deer
Turkey
Skunk
Bear (put away food, especially at night)
Photo locations
Homestead Area
Cabin Creek
Twin Pinnacle
Big Pinnacle
Ponies on Wilburn Ridge
Contact Information:
Grayson Highlands State Park
829 Grayson Highland Lane
Mouth of Wilson, VA 24363
(276) 579-7092
Link to Official Website
Reservations
To make reservations call the Virginia State Parks Reservation Center toll free 1-800-933-PARK (7275)
or click on the link below:
Grayson Highlands State Park Reservations